Our spring issue just went to print this morning, keep an eye out for it soon. Here is one of our reviews from the seen and read section this issue.
West of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origin of Belief
Steven Kotler
After paddling back out to the lineup in Indonesia following a serious wipeout that dragged him across the reef and flogged him senseless, Steven Kotler is told by a fellow surfer the story of the Conductor. The Conductor is a legendary surfer who controls the waves and weather with a staff made from a human bone.
Years later, in the middle of a bout with Lyme disease, a bedridden Kotler paddles out into waist-high crappy waves. It is hard to believe that this wind slop could inspire anybody, but to a man who is battling his own demons and contemplating suicide, the rush of a few turns is enough to get him moving again. Surfing gives him something to live for.
West of Jesus follows Kotler’s search for the origins of the Conductor story and takes a look at the neuroscience of sports and spirituality.
www.stevenkotler.com
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I read it. I liked it. Like all surf authors, Kotler is a little bit of an elitist, while doing his best to cover that up. In no way does he approach the pure assholism of, say, Allan Weisbecker, and this adds to the integrity of the storyline.
This book is well researched and thought out. He really draws a connection between religion, the “flow” experience, and the brain, but while doing so he does not create much interest in his story of finding the origins of the “Conductor,” the hero of his surf legend.
This book is interesting and offers much insight into a unique sport but is by no means perfect. “West of Jesus” is definitely a worthy read.