Sometimes the news isn’t all fluff and tv journalists take actual risk. I can’t believe these reporters took a video camera out to this surf spot. As as surfer/surf journalist living in Oregon, I have steered clear from writing on a certain area known for great waves in the Pacific Northwest. To this day, I’ve never mentioned it by name in print, on a blog, or in a surfing forum and I won’t. But what new surfers need to understand is that localism isn’t always bad. In the case of the break in question, it is and it isn’t. Sure, it sucks to be on the receiving end of hate, and I’m no advocate of violence over waves, but anyone can surf here if he or she establishes him or herself over time. That’s just the way it works at world class surf breaks.
Surfing big waves in remote areas in cold water is dangerous and too many beginner surfers get in way over their heads. The beach may be public, but the ocean is god and judges your abilities the second you step into the liquid. Oregon has already become the “it” spot for wave hunting journalists, though rarely does the weather cooperate. Trust me, I live here and I dream of tropical climes with consistent waves. For those folks who live on the coast, to get good surf, they have to be extremely dedicated, jumping into the wetsuit when the weather breaks and conditions lineup, no matter what time of day it is. They deserve some respect for that.
That’s BS. No one gets to stake out public property for their private use, whether it’s prime surf, state parks, or the bike path near my house. Just because you’re a good, dedicated surfer doesn’t entitle you to be an ass. They deserve to be outed.
I read the article on KGW.com and it seems pretty reasonable to me. It sounds like some of the surf community has brought this upon themselves. Public land is PUBLIC. Just because I see other skiers tracking up my powder stash, doesn’t mean I berate and chastise them. Maybe weaker surfers shouldn’t get in over their heads, but who are you to determine who’s worthy of a particular break?
yeah, this is crap. no one appointed these guys protectors of the break. they just want the place all to themselves. acting like a-holes is uncalled for and ridiculous.
this is why surfers get such a bad rap.
Steve and Trent, all I’m saying is that this aspect of surf culture is as old as surfing itself, and there is little point arguing about it or not. Also, I’ve seen a great many public waves exploited, overdeveloped and destroyed thusly.
Locals have a responsibility to a break. But keeping away goons, might just help keep everyone safer. You can’t compare your ‘powder stash’ to a place like the one in question. The surf world has seen countless breaks come to ruin because of obscene exposure. People can’t help themselves. Can’t stop taking photos, filming, bragging or blogging about good spots. If people knew their abilities, comitted to respecting common surf ettiquette and not documenting places like this, things might run a bit smoother.
Stiv’s right, localism is as old as surfing. No point railing against it. It just exists. By and large, the Golden Rule will serve you well out there.
I’m not sure this “expose” is quite as dramatic as this post makes it seem, though. That place is no secret. The actual secret spots don’t have drive-up access (yeah there’s a little walk down the rocks, or a slide down the hill).
Been years since I’ve paddled out there, though. I’ve got good memories of most of my sessions there, and a few memories of some stinker encounters with some self-assigned enforcers. I finally quit going out there. I’m a regular foot, and there are plenty of other good spots that suit me better without the drive or people-hassle.