
It seems like everyone is climbing the world’s tallest mountain these days – and finding a way to make headlines doing it. Earlier this week, thirteen-year-old Jordan Romano became the youngest person to climb Everest. Today I read about Sean Swarmer, the first cancer survivor to reach the summit. Sherpa Apa, who recently made headlines for having reached the summit a record twenty times, says, “The way to the peak has become very congested. It has changed a lot compared to the earlier days.” No kidding?
This year, poker playing brothers (and mountaineering experts), Damien and Guillermo “Willie” Benegas hope to compete in the world’s highest poker game, on top of Mount Everest. Earlier this week, Lewis Gordon Pugh, otherwise known as ‘the human polar bear’, didn’t attempt the summit. Instead he swam the icy waters running off it – becoming the first man to swim a glacial lake on the world’s tallest mountain. Last year a 50-strong group of amateurs climbed to the 16,945-foot Gorak Shep plateau (just above the Everest Base Camp), in order to set the world record for the highest cricket match. Team Hillary beat team Tenzig by 36 runs. Then, last Monday, 22-year-old Bonita Norris became the youngest female to reach the summit of Everest before having to be dragged back to camp four by her Sherpas and guide, Kenton Cool, after she suffered a fall while attached to a rope. On the same trip Cool became the first Brit to summit Everest a total of eight times (beating his own previous record of seven). In 2007 he set the record for becoming the first British Guide to lead a client successfully up the North Face of the Eiger. Also on Monday, Leif Whittaker, son of Jim Whittaker (the first American to reach the summit of Everest), bagged the mountain, making him the first son of the first American to reach the top of Everest to reach the top of Everest. Last week American climber Chad Kellogg made a bid for the summit of Everest. His goal? To set a new speed record ascent, without use of oxygen or Sherpas. And yesterday thirty-three-year-old Elia Saikaly became the youngest Lebanese to reach the summit.
With all this traffic, Everest has become a dump for both actual garbage and bodies of climbers claimed by the mountain. A team of Sherpas that left for Everest in late April on a clean-up mission has already found five bodies and collected over 2.5 tons of garbage.
Making it to the top of Everest is a feat worthy of ultimate respect. Climbing anything at that altitude requires peak athleticism, focus, months of daunting logistical planning, and money. Loads of money. Climbers don’t buy their way to the top, as is occasionally implied. Getting to the top of Everest is a deadly undertaking, and everybody who sets foot on that peak has earned it. But the cost of attempting an Everest expedition is more than most people make in a year. It’s probably more than I’ve made in my lifetime. And in order to flip those bills, climbers must solicit sponsors. And the most sexy way to solicit a sponsor, it seems, is by making a first attempt: The youngest. The oldest. The first person to do it drunk. The only hermaphrodite. The first person to walk it backwards. The first to do it while wearing an Alice Cooper T-shirt. The first ballroom dance on top of the world. The first astronaut to climb it in diapers.
As an editor, I understand the need for a hook as well as anyone. We cover Everest firsts on the Wend blog all the time. News organizations like us are as much a part as the problem as anything. And I respect that many Everest climbers need to drum up publicity in order to appease sponsors and raise awareness for their causes. Many of the people who climb Everest either do it to raise money for charity or do it for themselves, under the auspices of raising money for charity. But with climbing teams lining up shoulder to shoulder to reach the summit, and the world’s tallest mountain becoming the world’s tallest trash dump, I don’t think I’m alone when I say I’m feeling a little put out reading so many stories about people chasing non-technical Everest ‘Firsts.’
















Not only are the “firsts” getting out of control, they are putting more and more Sherpas’ lives at risk. Before foreigners began climbing Everest, Sherpas had no desire to trespass on the sacred mountains. Their language didn’t even have a word for summit. Now they work on expeditions to help sustain themselves, but every time someone steps foot on Everest, the lives of Sherpas are at risk.In 1990, I helped create the first hut system in Nepal–The Sherpa Guide Lodges. Two years later, I began leading treks to the Base Camp.Present during the worst storm in their history, I was appalled at world press coverage of the deaths of foreigners with little mention of the Sherpas who also perished. I returned home to write their story so others would understand their culture and appreciate their contributions to Everest mountaineering.
In Beyond the Summit, details of Sherpa culture and religion are interwoven in a tale of romance and high adventure. The story has something for everyone: a love affair between an American journalist and Sherpa guide, conflict between generations as the modern world challenges centuries of tradition, an expedition from the porter’s point of view.
Below are selections from reviews. To read the complete ones and excerpts go to http://www.beyondthesummit-novel.com
Beyond the Summit, is the rare gem that shows us the triumphs and challenges of a major climb from the porter’s point of view. The love of two people from diverse cultures is the fiery centerpiece of a novel that leads its readers through harshly beautiful and highly dangerous territory to the roof of the world. Malcolm Campbell, book reviewer
A gripping, gut-twisting expedition through the eyes of a porter reveals the heart and soul of Sherpas living in the shadows of Everest. EverestNews.com
LeBlanc is equally adept at describing complex, elusive emotions and the beautiful, terrifying aspect of the Himalayan Mountains. Boulder Daily Camera
This is the book to read before you embark on your pilgrimage to Nepal. The author knows and loves the people and the country, and makes you feel the cold thin air, the hard rocks of the mountains, the tough life of the Sherpa guides, and you learn to love them too. This is a higly literate, but also very readable book. Highly recommended.”
– John (college professor)
Such vividly depicted images of the Everest region and the Sherpa people are the perfect scenario for the romance and adventure feats narrated. It’s a page-turner, so engrossing you end up wanting to visit Nepal! Not just novel, but perfect for those seeking to get acquainted with the culture of this country.
By Claudia Fournier (América, Bs. As., Argentina)
FYI; here’s a piece I wrote in 2008 covering the same subject. Hope you enjoy it.
http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=17530