Belén de Andamarca, Dept. of Oruro, Bolivia-Muyta 2008!!!
What? Yep, we thought the same thing. It started when we arrived in Belén, a small pueblo about 120k from Oruro. Now, these roads don´t have much traffic. Really. Maybe one car an afternoon, maybe three.

As we turn into Belén, we were passed by a convoy of about 10 official SUVs and trucks. All were very polite and slowed down so as not to splash us with mud, and they all waved and grinned.

We turned into the main plaza, continuing our quest for cheese and bread, and found a celebration about to begin.

There was a band of old men playing flutes warming up, a sound system going into the gazebo, colorful blankets everywhere, and a crowd. Also, 10 foot tall posters of President Evo Morales hanging from a couple of buildings.

A friendly official came up to us to welcome us to Belén, ask where we were from, and basically take care of us.
First off, taking the advice of a few others (including Bolivianos), we said we were from Canada. We explained that we had taken a wrong turn, and were trying to get to Oruro. We also said that we were writing for a magazine, and that we want to be school teachers.

I don´t think I have ever been so welcomed. We were passed from one official to the Tourist Officer, and back. They stood by us and explained most of what was happening, and encouraged us to take photos. They really, really encouraged us to take photos, to get in people´s faces, it was ok. (Neither Andy nor I are particularly comfortable with taking pictures of people-it seems rude. But they were so excited to have us there, we had to comply.) So there I was, in my pink spandex, crawling around trying not to be obtrusive (hah!) and get photos of the incredible scene.

The Muyta is the reaching out of the government, where the governor and his aides go to the country to meet the people, and address their needs. It´s very much based on the idea of the people´s government, of taking the business of running the department out of the governmental buildings and giving it to the people. This is Evo´s government-he is an indigenous Boliviano, from the Oruro Department, and his government is the people´s. So, the Muyta. Half the time is spent in ceremonies, and the other half is spent listening to the leaders and trying to problem solve. They have been on the road for two weeks, and hit about 15 different communities.

First, the governor was welcomed through a ceremonial arch. On either side stood the leaders of the surrounding communities-a man and a woman, from each. They were old, leathery skin, traditionally dressed, and beautiful in their solemnity. He passed through the arch and greeted each leader. He was covered, absolutely covered, in confetti strings. There were blanks being fired, and the band wheezed and coughed through some sort of traditional song.

The whole group moved to the central plaza. The governor welcomed everyone, and then a ritual to celebrate Pachamama, mother earth, was performed. Coca was passed, incense was burned, liquor was drunk. The governor was given a huge wreath of coca, and another community leader also wore one. There was a lot of talk about celebrating the indigenous culture of Bolivia, and how important it was to protect their way of life. The Bolivian national anthem was sung by all.

Several times, a refrain that went something like Viva Belén, Viva Oruro, Viva Evo, Viva Bolivia was repeated.

At some point, we were welcomed as the visiting Canadians. We just blushed and grinned and waved.

Finally it was time to leave Belén, and we were given a map and excellent directions, and lots of Buen Viajes.

Totally, incredibly, absolutely amazing.