TMF Expedition 2010 Part II

We continue the story begun in part I here.

The top of Tower 1 as I saw it after I put on my glasses in the morning

Day 3

After getting dumped on for much of the night, we weren’t sure what day 3 would bring. My first peek out through the shelter zipper revealed some blue sky and the top of Tower 1 among the clouds, so I stuck the camera out to take a photo looking the other direction. I got a photo of a wet rock, but decided to make my move anyway. Our original plan was to climb the Tower 1 gully of Mount Helen, a classic with up to 70 degree snow/ice. That didn’t sound too appetizing for me with flexible boots, aluminum crampons, and a single axe that is described as a “snow tool”. I lobbied for heading up the south buttress of Tower 1 and then on to the summit with a descent back down the North Gully. This also would allow us to leave some of the gear and food back at camp. Mount Helen, at 13,620 feet (4,151 m) is the 4th highest peak in the range and the 5th in the state. Rumor has it that it is the mountain depicted on the Colorado state postage stamp.

We traversed over to near the base of the South Buttress and started up an attractive dihedral. We climbed as 2 parties of 3. As usual we had some gear compromises with some lightweight harnesses, shorter than standard ropes, and a lean rack. At least we had good Evolv climbing shoes. I started off simul-climbing, but after pulling a few hard moves (and/or low on gear) I’d set up a belay and bring the others and the gear back up. We continued this pattern for the rest of an enjoyable morning. It was also nice to see that the weather appeared to be holding off for us. From time to time I’d point out a better route for the second team, but mostly we just climbed whatever features looked fun and easy enough. There were some cracks that looked fantastic, but I am guessing that they were a good bit harder than 5.7, so we traversed around them. As we neared the summit, the climbing got even more exposed and fun, although I reluctantly agreed to not go to the summit of Tower 1 (due to time constraints).

Jason plotting his next moves on the south Buttress of Tower 1 of Mount Helen

Andy Climbing on Mount Helen

one of the last pitches on Tower 1

When I got to the notch between Tower 1 and 2 I could see down the seemingly vertical gully we had planned to come up originally, and I am glad we opted for the rock climbing (although things really do look steeper from above). Then we had to figure out how to get around Tower 2. The guide said to skirt it on the south side, but that looked pretty desperate. Finally we decided to rappel back down and climb up around on the south side.

The group where we rapped down off of Tower 1

Then we went through the notch between Tower 2 and Tower 3 and started up towards the summit. We got our first good look at the summit of Gannet Peak from here. This next bit was complicated by water running down the most obvious dihedral. With gusts the water would blow back up the face and onto any unsuspecting climbers downwind.

You can just see our camp for nights 2 and 3 in the center of the image

The hotch above Tower 2 on Mount Helen

Climbing up Mount Helen above Tower 2

We continued on with a crux move protected by an old piton. Clipping it was exciting though, as my foot slipped off of the ice patch I was stemming on. The next bit of excitement was a bit of poorly protected traversing rock climbing which I did, or stemming between another snow/ice patch and a wet wall which Jason led. Neither was particularly secure feeling.

Daniel belays high on Mount Helen, Bonney Pass and Gannet Peak are in the background

Then there was a bit of fun scrambling which ended on a pile of rocks at the angle of repose. Daniel went up this first and found the mine field (he held one sliding rock while Sam was stemming up the dihedral below). Luckily no major rocks came down to crush him. The rest of us went up carefully while the others hid off to the side. One more step across some ice and some scrambling led to the summit from there.

Chelsey is nearing the last difficult step

Tom and the rest of the crew on the summit

360 degree summit panorama from Mount Helen

on the 13,620 ft summit

Summit panorama from Mount Hellen looking roughly SE through SW

We enjoyed the views, signed the register (we appeared to be the first group this year), and plotted our descent. Heading down the ridge to the east and north was the chosen course. One ridge of snow was a bit exciting. Then we downclimbed to the north and finally were able to glissade and plunge step down to the top of the north gully. From there we descended rapidly (for the most part) back to our camp. After another delicious Alpine Aire meal, we packed ourselves back into the shelters and tried to sleep.

Andy crosses an exciting snow ridge on the descent from Mount Helen

we downclimbed on the rocks down to the snowfield

we went down a bit of talus to the snow at the top of North Couloir on Mount Helen

We were able to glissade quite a longs ways down the north couloir of Mount Helen

Andy, Tom, and Sam packed into the shelter for the night

Day 4

This morning we got up early as we had a long day planned. It was still quite cold, but that helped with walking on top of the snow instead of post holing. We ate breakfast and packed up quickly and then headed up towards Bonney (once Dinwoody) pass. It looked like a long way from Mount Helen, but it seemed even longer slogging up it with our packs from our camp near 11,400 feet to the pass at 12,831 feet.

Crisp morning snow works well with crampons

Mt Helen from high on Bonney Pass

Sam does a balance on Dinwoody Pass

At the pass we took a short break for some food and to marvel at the view. Then we dropped way back down on the Dinwoody Glacier to skirt around below a large rock rib. From there we headed up with a little difficulty on some crevassed ice and onto the Gooseneck Glacier. Here Mountain Man Dan took the lead and kicked some most excellent steps up the steeper part of the glacier. Then we had a bit more rocks above Gooseneck Pinnacle and we were on the summit ridge of Gannet Peak. Gannet is the highest point in Wyoming at 13,799 feet (4,209 m). Some say it is the second hardest of the state highpoints after Denali in Alaska. It certainly is a spectacular peak in a remote and spectacular setting.

Gannet Peak is the tall one with snow across the top

panorama descending the north side of Bonney Pass

Jumping a crevasse on the Dinwoody Glacier

(she actually has a lot more forward momentum than this picture suggests)

hiking across the Dinwoody Glacier

we were all glad we weren't there when this rock came down

Tom refuels with some AlpineAire on the way up Gannet

Daniel kicks great steps up the Gooseneck Glacier for us

Sam heading up the Gooseneck Glacier

Approaching the summit of Gannet Peak

a panoramic image looking east through south and west from Gannet Peak

We signed the register and enjoyed the view. Then we decided that doing some AcroYoga on the summit would be more fun and easier than finding the descent.

Chelsey on top of Wyoming

the obligatory summit pose

Playing on the summit of Gannet Peak

There is always time for a handstand

Daniel flying on top of Gannet Peak

More AcroYoga (or Yogabatics as Dawn would say)

Balancing on Gannet

more AcroYoga fun on Gannet

a summit flag

a panoramic image from Gannet Peak looking west through north with the Wells Creek drainage visible

After we had our fun, we had to face up to it and find a way down. I wasn’t sure how we would get down to the west, as the cliff descended thousands of feet to the glacier in that direction, but Andy had a plan. We started out heading down the steep north ridge. When we hit the rock we rappelled, although it looked like downclimbing would be possible. I downclimbed from the bottom of the rappel and saw that we would be able to descend the talus to the top of a snowfield. Some of the group did a second rappel. Then we picked our way down the loose talus to the snowfield. It cut down around some rocks, so we couldn’t see if it went all the way down, and an uncontrolled slide would end up on rocks or going over a cliff. We carefully headed down until we could see around the corner that the angle eased below. Then we were able to plunge step and glissade down a good distance before having to cut left around another cliff band.

Andy starts down the north slope of Gannet Peak

heading down west towards the Minor Glacier

Jason consults the map to pick the best route

Then we crossed the Minor Glacier (which is still quite large). This featured a few sections of painful post holing into slush, especially as the crust was hard enough to hurt your shins. More talus, rock, and a snowfield brought us out of the land of rock and snow and onto a beautiful little meadow for another break.

crossing the Minor Glacier west of Gannet Peak

80's hair courtesy of the Wind River Range

The trip did wonders for Sam's hair too

Next we dropped down to and traversed around a lovely little lake before making our way past Scott Lake. We were planning to go down Wells Creek, but weren’t sure exactly how. It didn’t look passable from the head of the long extension on Scott Lake with either cliffs or undercut snow going down to the water. Chelsey pointed out what a lovely place this would be to camp.

a nice little lake in the Wells Creek drainage

hiking around the edge of a lake

Looking back west towards Gannet Peak

wildflowers on the shore of Scott Lake (Gannet Peak in the distance)

We pressed on heading up the rounded buttress to the north of Wells Creek looking for a good way down. Or even a not impossible way down. This was made more exciting by the fact that many of the cliff tops were rounded so it was hard to get to the edge to see what was below. Finally we succumbed to the lure of Chelsey’s beautiful meadow campsites and the idea of stopping before we lost the sun (so that we could dry things off before it got cold and dark). We stopped with the usual gear explosion across a meadow. We found a number of sardine cans near where we camped, but nobody was brave enough to open one (they looked like they had been there for years). A few days earlier it seemed like we had maybe brought too much food, but now we were thinking maybe we hadn’t brought enough. There was some bartering for various bars and other treats. Before we lost all the sun we posed for a group photo with our Mont-Bell thermawrap gear on. That evening a full moon rose over the mountains.

trying to figure out how to get down the Wells Creek Drainage

mountain still life with sardine cans

a typical gear explosion/sorting/drying at our camp

we were kept toasty by the powers of Thermawrap

As usual we figured that if we could just get to the river, the packrafting would be easier.

To Be Continued…